Axialspiel Nockenwelle

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Stefan
Manxman
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Registriert: Montag 25. Januar 2010, 08:44

Axialspiel Nockenwelle

Beitrag von Stefan »

Moin zusammen,

mir ist beim Zündung einstellen aufgefallen, dass bei meiner 850er Commando die Nockenwelle ca. 0,88 mm axial wandert.
Wie viel darf die denn axiales Spiel haben und wie stellt man das ein? Ich habe in den Unterlagen nix finden können.

Per Hand lässt sich die Nockenwelle nicht bewegen... seltsamer Weise ist das eine pulsierende Bewegung immer pro Umdrehung der Welle.

Vielleicht kennt das jemand.
AHO
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Registriert: Donnerstag 8. September 2011, 18:01
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Re: Axialspiel Nockenwelle

Beitrag von AHO »

Vorgabewerte kenne ich nicht, einzustellen ist da meines Wissens auch nichts.
Tritt denn dieses "Pulsieren" immer zeitgleich mit dem Öffnungsbeginn eines speziellen Ventils auf? Wenn ja, miss mal den Ventilhub dieses Ventils und des entsprechenden Ventils des anderen Zylinders. Wenn da Unterschiede sind, deutet das auf einen (evtl. schräg) eingelaufenen Nocken hin, der eine Seitenkraft erzeugt.

Gruß
Andreas
Norton
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Re: Axialspiel Nockenwelle

Beitrag von Norton »

Das Achsialspiel der Nockenwelle definiert sich aus dem Mass zwischen dem Bund auf der Nockenwelle und dem Nockenwellenzahnrad und der Breite der Lagerbüchse. Der Bund auf der Nockenwelle ist bei den Motoren mit dem Drehzahlmesserantrieb ein aufgesteckter Ring. Ich hab schon mal einen Motor zerlegt, da hat dieser Ring einfach gefehlt. Dann macht die Nockenwelle natürlich alles mögliche.

Gruss. Martin.
Jung sein ist keine Frage des Alters.
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Stefan
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Re: Axialspiel Nockenwelle

Beitrag von Stefan »

So,

Sonntag mit schrauben verbracht. Ich dachte und hoffte das der konische Ring vergessen wurde. Dem war aber nicht so. Es war eine eingelaufene Nockenwelle....

So ein Mist...
Norton
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Re: Axialspiel Nockenwelle

Beitrag von Norton »

Das heisst natürlich den Motor komplett zerlegen, inklusive Kurbelwelle.
Einen Vorteil hast Du grade: die Saison ist rum.

Gruss. Martin.
Jung sein ist keine Frage des Alters.
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Chris Zet
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Registriert: Sonntag 20. März 2011, 12:05
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Re: Axialspiel Nockenwelle

Beitrag von Chris Zet »

Hi Stefan,

hab vor mein Kurbelgehäuse zu zerlegen diesen Winter und interessiere mich auch gerade für die Werte die ich da untenrum so brauche....

ich finde dieses Video vom Jim Schmidt dafür sehr informativ:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JxGU2fwGbRw

chris
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Nörtn ut stall
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Re: Axialspiel Nockenwelle

Beitrag von Nörtn ut stall »

Chris Zet hat geschrieben:Hi Stefan,

hab vor mein Kurbelgehäuse zu zerlegen diesen Winter und interessiere mich auch gerade für die Werte die ich da untenrum so brauche....

ich finde dieses Video vom Jim Schmidt dafür sehr informativ:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JxGU2fwGbRw

chris
Moin, ich habe letztens gelernt, wie man den Text aus Youtube-Filmen extrahiert (speech to text). Kann hier ganz sinnvoll sein, um sich einen Fahrplan o.ä. zu basteln ...

:halloatall:

I'm Jim and Jas motorsport we're going
to show you how to build a Norton racing
motor start with balancing the
crankshaft this motor uses a short
stroke crank so we're going to weigh the
piston the ring set the circlips the
small end of the rod and the pin notice
that this pin is tapered board to save a
few grams this is the reciprocating
weight and it's what causes all the
stress and vibration in your motor so
you want this to be as lightweight as
possible we want a 65% balance factor so
we're going to multiply the
reciprocating weight times sixty five
percent then we're going to add one
hundred percent of the rotating weight
which is the big end of the rod the
shell bearings and the oil in the crank
which is anywhere from 25 to 50 grams
depending on the crankshaft this
flywheel has so much counterweight so
we're going to reshape the flywheel and
rebalances
sometimes it's good to make a plug that
goes in between the journals that way if
you take too much off the counterweight
you can drill a hole in the plug and
balance the two out then when you're
ready lot type to plug into place bolt
everything together if you want to
balance it yourself get the Norton race
manual it has instructions and
illustrations on how to static balance
your crankshaft this is a Norton Racing
crankshaft it's been night rated if you
ever grind the journals you have to re
nitrite it or it'll break these are
heavy duty Racing cases we're mounting a
one-way Reed valve breather the one-way
Reed valve breather works more
efficiently if you plug these events to
the timing chest we've relocated the oil
return hole here so oil level is lower
and you don't turn up so much oil this
is a vertical engine if it's a tilted
engine you can relocate that oil return
hole down here first thing we're going
to do is Shin the in play of the crank
don't use the small shims because
they'll ride on this radius and the
crank stub use the large shims that go
into cases the easy way to shim the
crank is to take some junk bearings
belts and the outside diameter down so
it's about three thousand smaller that
way we'll easily fit in and out of the
cases you can do the same with the inner
race use a die grinder open up the
inside about three thousands so we'll
slide onto the crankshaft
you want about five or ten thousands of
an inch in play for the crankshaft you
can use a dial indicator or you can
install shims till you have zero
clearance and then remove some shims you
want the same for the cam in play and
you can just use a feeler gauge between
the bronze bushing and the sprocket
we're going to install a chi s
motorsport camshaft because it uses
light weight lifters that weigh less
than half as much as the heavy stock
lifters and they use the bronze blocks
the light weight lifters have about a
one and one eighth inch radius this
curvature gives you a better geometry
than a flat lifter or a lifter with a
broader radius the improved geometry of
the small radius lifter allows you to
use a cam with a broader smoother nose
this spreads out the stresses and gives
you a longer-lasting can then the stock
cam or the sharp pointy nose that
creates more stress and where these are
high quality rods made for Jay s
motorsport by Carillo there's no bushing
that makes a small in about 30 grams
lighter than other steel rods the holes
are very high-quality they're good for
life as long as you don't over torquing
you torque them down to about 35
foot-pounds
if you go over 40 then you've ruined
them this is a DLC coated pin the DLC
coating prevents metal to metal contact
with the Bush lestrade the pin and the
rod still looked like new after years of
service the shell bearings have been
coated with a moly coating this gives
them a longest service life and we need
to do everything we can for this motor
because it's going to be a high rpm
screamer as you can see this rod is
longer than a stock Norton rod and that
goes through the shorter piston that
gives you a better rod to stroke ratio
which reduces stress of high rpm
and gives you a little more power the
piston is much lighter than stock weighs
about one-third as much you can see
we've drilled the skirts because we're
taken all the way we can office for the
high RPM there's a coating on the skirts
it's a braid able and it'll wear off the
tight spots after it's broken in you end
up with a tighter piston overall than
normal before you assemble the cases
temporarily install the camshaft lifters
and the lifter blocks that way you can
check the alignment of the camshaft
lobes to the lifters you also want to
check the clearance between the lobes
and the lifter blocks this gap here
should be about 40 or 50 thousandths of
an inch
now if the cylinders removed and the
lifter blocks still in place you can see
that they protrude about 40 thousands of
an inch here record that measurement for
later if you have too much camshaft in
play say 20 or 30 thousandths then
you'll want to use a shim to take up the
slack check the cam lobe alignment with
the lifters to determine whether the
shim should go inside the case or
outside the case if you put it outside
the case then you'll want to use some
contacts in it and glue the shim
directly to the case otherwise the shim
can fall down and get caught between the
cam shoulder and the sprocket now we're
ready for assembly we're going to heat
up the cases to about 250 degrees put
the bearings in the freezer drop me into
place do the same thing with a crank
chill down the crank warm up the inner
races it's good to have aluminum bar and
a piece of tubing on hand in case you
need to tap in the super blends
and pound on the in erases the
Barrington shins are in place we're
going to Lou them up squirt them oil in
the cam journals and prime the crank use
an oil can and squirt oil into the oil
hole until you see it coming out the
journals also use a little bit of
assembly Lube on the journals and on the
cam loads doesn't hurt to put a little
bit on the cam journals as well
everything's ready rods of torque down
it's all lubed up use a thin smear
our Permatex moto seal one or the right
stuff put a thin film on each mating
surface assemble the cases
Erfahrung ist die Summe des zerstörten Materials
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Chris Zet
Manxman
Beiträge: 149
Registriert: Sonntag 20. März 2011, 12:05
Wohnort: Graz

Re: Axialspiel Nockenwelle

Beitrag von Chris Zet »

Coole Sache mit der Übersetzung!!!!! Danke!!!
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